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From Charleston: On shrimp and grits

My name is Kim Mills and I work with Mel on the copy desk at the News & Record. She has allowed me to kidnap her blog for a few entries on my recent trip to Charleston, S.C.

I grew up in South Carolina, but my husband, Jeff, is from upstate New York, so I tried to make sure that he experienced as much as possible while we were there … and a lot of it revolved around eating!

Lowcountry Shrimp and Grits was a big topic of conversation for us. The question? Just what makes it Lowcountry. We were there for five days and Jeff had Shrimp and Grits for four meals! He was doing some comparison eating.
shrimp.jpg
Now for those of you who think Shrimp and Grits is an odd pairing, let me tell you where it comes from and it will make perfect sense. I’ve been told that it started out long ago as a breakfast dish for fishermen. It was easy to make and hearty enough to hold them over if they missed lunch. Their recipes were pretty simple – they would cook the grits, boil the shrimp, combine them and eat. Not much to it.

But nowadays, you can find recipes from a simple Sauteed Shrimp and Grits to Shrimp and Grits with a Coconut Curry Sauce. And believe me, whose recipe is the “real” recipe is a debate that can get you into some real trouble.

The Lowcountry area starts just below Myrtle Beach, S.C., and continues all the way down to Savannah, Ga., so I guess you could say that any recipes used within that area could be considered Lowcountry. As far as I’m concerned, here are the criteria that should be met when making Shrimp and Grits:

A. The grits have to be creamy.
B. The shrimp must be sautéed in garlic.
C. Thick-sliced bacon should be included.
D. And last but not least, you are subject to punishment BY DEATH if you even think about using instant grits!

Here are two recipes – one easy, one a little more complicated – that you can try and decide for yourself. (Note: Stone-ground coarse grits are best, but you can substitute whatever texture grits you like.)

Easy Lowcountry Shrimp and Grits

Grits
1 cup heavy cream
1 2/3 cups seafood, chicken or vegetable broth (recipe to follow)
1 cup water
4 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 cup quick-cooking grits (not instant)

Bring heavy cream, broth and water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add butter, salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in grits and reduce heat. Cook 15 to 20 minutes over low heat, stirring frequently.

Shrimp
2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon butter
3 slices thick bacon, chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
1-2 cloves garlic (subject to taste)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Meanwhile, heat olive oil and butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add bacon and cook without stirring until the bacon starts to turn a light brown. Add garlic and onions and saute until tender, then toss in shrimp. Season with salt and pepper, and cook 5 to 6 minutes or until shrimp turn pink.

Stir shrimp mixture into grits and continue cooking for 10 minutes. Serve hot.

Not-Quite-As-Easy Shrimp and Grits

Grits
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups water
1 1/2 cups hot shrimp, chicken, or vegetable stock (recipe to follow)
1/4 cup butter
Salt and black pepper to taste
1 cup stone-ground grits

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine cream, water and hot stock; bring to a gentle boil. Add butter, salt, and pepper. Slowly add grits, stirring constantly (so that the grits do not settle to the bottom and scorch), until all are added reduce heat to medium-low. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally (be carefully not to scorch mixture), or until the grits are tender. Grits should have absorbed all of the liquid and become soft and should have the same consistency as oatmeal (moist, not dry). If the grits become too thick, add warm stock or water to thin. Remove from heat.

Shrimp
1 pound large raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and black pepper to taste
6 bacon slices
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
1 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons finely chopped green or red bell pepper (can substitute whatever fresh vegetables are in season – asparagus, green beans, etc.)

Meanwhile, sprinkle shrimp with lemon juice, salt and pepper; set aside. In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, cook bacon until brown but not crisp. Remove from heat and pat dry with paper towels; set aside. Coarsely chop bacon when cool. Reserve 4 tablespoons of bacon grease in the frying pan. Add onion, garlic and green or red bell pepper; sauté 10 minutes or until the onion is transparent. Add shrimp and bacon; sauté 5 to 7 minutes or until shrimp turn pink. Remove from heat. To serve, spoon hot grits onto individual serving plates and top with shrimp mixture.
Makes 4 servings.

Homemade Shrimp Stock
Shells from 1 pound of shrimp
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/4 cup chopped celery
1/4 cup chopped carrot
2 cloves garlic, sliced
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. black pepper

Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan. Cook over high heat until the vegetables start to sweat. Add about 2 1/2 cups of cold water (enough to cover the vegetables). Bring almost to a boil, then reduce the heat to a low simmer. Simmer for about 45 minutes to an hour. Strain.
Can be frozen for later use.

Contact Kim Mills at 373-7014 or ksmills@news-record.com.

Related posts
From Charleston: Chocolate chip cookies, anyone?
From Charleston: The culinary tourist in the Lowcountry
From Charleston: Where to eat

Comments (2)

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Dale said:

Two questions" In the first recipe, "Easy Lowcountry Shrimp and Grits" list thick bacon as one of the ingredients.
In the pre-ramble to the recipe, you said that any lowcountry recioe must include thin sliced bacon but the first recipe calls for thick sliced baconn.

Why thick sliced in this recipe?
What does one do with it> The recipe never says.

Kim said:

The type of bacon you use is completely subjective. I've used both thick and thin with success, it just all comes down to your taste and preference. I've also heard of people using country-style ham or tasso ham, which is a spicy, Cajun-type ham.

Also, I've updated the first recipe to include instructions for the bacon. How could I forget the bacon?!? Thanks, Dale.

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