Norfolk -- not just a Navy town
I knew I'd like Norfolk when I found three Irish pubs on Granby Street while walking to Tidewater Community College for the first session of my training course Monday. I'll be here through tomorrow.
I'm sorry to have missed the election, but I congratulate the winners and hope everyone will pull together to improve our communities.
This is my first visit to Norfolk. I'm staying in a hotel on Waterside Drive, with a room overlooking the harbor. I can see a Navy frigate and aircraft carrier from the room, and this morning I watched a freighter arriving.
I've visited the Douglas MacArthur Memorial -- very grand; he must have designed it himself -- and old St. Paul's Episcopal Church. I've jogged along the harbor, past the battleship Wisconsin, and through some new and old downtown residential areas. I've had the best crabcake ever, and I've stopped in two of the Irish pubs so far -- O'Malley's and Jack Quinn's. Last night at the former, a really terrible Irish singer entertained. I believe his efforts were hindered by a bit too much of the creature. Odd, I always thought the more an Irishman drank the better he'd sing.
I've been downtown the entire time here and have not used my car since arriving. The area has plenty of nice restaurants, bars, theaters and shopping locations, in addition to banks, government buildings and churches. It's clean, safe and inviting. For some reason, there don't seem to be a lot of sailors around, unless they're in civvies.
Oh, yes, I'm also working very hard.
Comments (11)
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Doug,
You are near my old stomping grounds having lived in Virginia Beach for 23 years. The visible presence of sailors (also the infamous massage parlors) have long been gone from Downtown Norfolk. They disappeared even before Waterside was built and that has been over 16 years. (You have heard too many wives' tales.)
Even much of what used to be the seedy part of Norfolk, the strip in Oceanview, has been torn down and replaced with expensive condos. Remember that hit movie "Death of Oceanview Park" - didn't think so - Well they blew up the roller coaster and tore down the park long ago. The hurricane have taken care of the piers.
Now if you really want the BEST crab cakes it is worth venturing into Virginia Beach at the Oceanfront. Go to Waterman's around 8th street and oceanfront.
The best kept secret and very quaint if you want the best shrimp and she crab soup is Steinhiblers. You will have to call for for directions - it's back in the woods. It is in the Thalia area; a favorite local restaurant but they will let the tourists in too. Just try to blend in.
Another great spot for barbeque and the best fries is Beach Bully on 19th Street at the beach.
I am quite envious that you are up there and it is 80 degrees here. I would much rather be near that water - Norfolk or Va Beach. My husband happens to be up there working this week so I have another reason to be envious.
If you go in MacArthur Mall downtown, don't miss Restoration Hardware - a must.
You might also enjoy the ferry boat that takes you over to Dockside in Portsmouth from Downtown Norfolk.
Do venture to the beach and don't miss Jewish Mother for the best cheesecake and desserts ever Pacific Avenue around 30th. See you will have to stay longer and fit all this in.
Posted on November 9, 2005 3:05 PM
The sailors are probably out to sea keeping us safe from the terrorists that try to destroy our great country.
G_d bless every one of them, and when necessary, may G_d direct their aim to be true and deadly.
What are you training for? You look too gracefully aged to be able to absorb new stuff.
Baltimore's got better crabcakes than Norfolk, but that's just my opinion.
Posted on November 9, 2005 3:06 PM
Jon,
Baltimore does have great crabs along with of the other towns up there. "Maryland is for Crabs" and "Virginia is for Lovers" but they both have Phillips or at least Norfolk used to, just like Ocean City, Maryland.
You just need to know where to go in Norfolk and Va Beach.
When my husband works Maryland, he does get a bunch for take out and pigs out in his hotel room.
You are right about the Navy. Lots of them are gone. Also Oceana is threatening to pull permanently if the City of Va Beach doesn't use their power of eminent domain to stop the future development near the base.
Posted on November 9, 2005 3:33 PM
Doug,
If you are staying at a hotel on Waterside Dr. (Omni?), then your room doesn't have a harbor view. It has a river view as that is the Elizabeth River that you are looking upon. It's true that the nearby baseball stadium is named Harbor Park, but it really overlooks the river, not a harbor. It's too bad that it's not baseball season, as the Tides play in that park and it is a great vista for a game.
Yes, Norfolk suffers from a mistaken image. It's really a nice city since it was cleaned-up in the early 90's. Finally, the crab is the best in Baltimore, but since you are in spitting distance of the Chesapeake Bay, Norfolk is sure to have great crabs.
Posted on November 9, 2005 4:25 PM
Sure,you're working hard, Doug ....
Posted on November 9, 2005 4:32 PM
Stormy,
Beg to differ, Norfolk started the big Downtown clean-up way before the 90's. (Also I think Omni has changed names.) The first big effor that made a real difference was Waterside by the same developer who developed the Harborplace in Baltimore.
MacArthur Mall those has been there since around 96. You are right about Harbor Park though - a fun place.
In fact talked to my hubby tonight and he said about all of Oceanview is now torn down except for a few of the remaining old houses. Now that area used to be quite a strip of bars and hotels but no longer.
And now you all have me wishing for some softshell crabs and/or crabcakes.
Posted on November 9, 2005 11:47 PM
Doug, it's good to see you've left the realm of fantasy behind and decided to finally act out. We can only hope your "cruise" of the Norfolk waterfront has been successful and you'll return relaxed and ready to write. Anchors away!!!!
Posted on November 10, 2005 3:17 PM
Doug, one must have enough of the creature to over come the amount of the creature the singer had. Then the music will either sound good or will make no difference.
The crab cakes in Norfolk are good but I do believe they are better in Maryland, or at least in my experience. Either place however they are good and dang, you makin me hongry.
Posted on November 10, 2005 6:39 PM
Thanks, Barbara Ann, for the tips. I was pretty much confined to downtown Norfolk and didn't get to the Beach.
You're right, Jon. I'm too old to learn much.
Stormy, I stand corrected. The river it was. But it certainly has characteristics of a harbor.
Allen, I think I'm worked out for the week. Don't know if I can make it in to the office tomorrow morning.
Posted on November 10, 2005 9:45 PM
Doug,
The next time you go, e-mail me and I will give you some great spots to eat and visit.
I really think Allen should have given you the day off. After all, it is Veterans Day, you did visit the MacArthur Memorial. You could spend your day reflecting so you could be better inspired to write next week.
Posted on November 11, 2005 9:41 AM
Norfolk has redone itself well. The MacArthur Memorial certainly is grand--much like the man and his ego, but the design wasn't his. The building was actually the old City Hall, constructed sometime in the 19th century.
Posted on November 17, 2005 4:17 PM