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Karibu/Pole

The word Kenny and I have heard most commonly here in East Africa is karibu. In Swahili, it means welcome and much more. There's a strong hospitality culture, and people are warm and friendly.

Maybe next in frequency has been pole, an expression of sympathy. It's a gracious way for people to say, "Hey, I feel your pain."

While we've had a few bumps on this trip, the overall experience has been amazing. This is a different world, a real land of contrasts.

The wildlife parks are almost beyond belief. Mile after mile through the Serengeti, animals practically lined up for us to view. Great herds of wildebeest, zebra and impala. Elephants, lions, cheetahs, so much more. In Ngorongoro, we spotted seven of the park's 22 rare black rhinos.

The beauty of the land is awe-inspiring. That's true here in Mwanza as well, on the shore of Lake Victoria, blessed with a temperate climate and cool breezes. Sadly, however, what people have built on this landscape is for the most part a blight. This city is a shambles, a jumble, a mass of humanity and construction thrown together seemingly with little rhyme or reason. It barely seems to function.

I mentioned our break-in. The next morning, we traveled to the police station to file a report. The police compound is reached over an incredibly bumpy dirt road. Goats roam through the yard. The lone vehicle, a rusting Land Rover truck with a broken windshield, holds up a bicycle and gives shade to a few ducks.

The office is crowded and includes a couple of people watching television. A policewoman takes our report, first using a ruler to line a plain sheet of paper to create the official report form. After painstaking description and transcribing, the report is handed to another policewoman for copying into a ledger. Finally, we secure the assistance of a detective who agrees to examine the crime scene, as long as we provide his transportation. Grabbing his kit, he joins us in our cab. On the way, we have to stop off at a store where he attempts to buy tape to help him take fingerprints.

After the detective completes his work, he leaves in our cab. We expect not to hear anymore from the police, but apparently someone from Peace Corps headquarters in Dar es Salaam has called to encourage greater police attention to this case than normal. That night Andrew gets a call from the police informing him they're coming back.

Sure enough, at 11 p.m. they drive up in the same rusting truck - eight of them, two carrying automatic rifles. All eight file into the house, milling around, examining the crime scene, asking questions, offering theories. One takes Andrew aside and advises him to get a pistol. Another says they're working on a plan: The next time Andrew leaves overnight, they'll station an officer in the house waiting for the thieves to strike, then nail them.

We appreciate the concern, but modern police work this is not.

Sometimes things take on an up-to-date appearance but lack the function. For example, when Kenny and I boarded the bus in Nairobi for the long, long ride to Mwanza, all passengers were given a security check. But, as the wand passed over Kenny's pack, then Kenny, then my pack and then me, it beeped every time. No matter. We were invited to board without further scrutiny. Later, as passengers got off and on along the route, a man was allowed to board with a machete and sat behind Kenny. Just what sort of weapon might keep someone off?

I admire Andrew for how well he's coped with living here. Last night, he cooked us a fine dinner of rice, tomato sauce and mchina (like spinach) despite having no electricity or running water. These hardships, which ordinary Tanzanians take for granted, make one very resourceful.

Kenny and I will be home in a week, and Andrew in a year-and-a-half. The millions and millions here, and so many more throughout the Third World, will never leave their lives of inconvenience and hardship. And yet, when they see strangers - and believe me, we're easy to spot - their first word is always karibu.

Then, if necessary, pole.

Comments (25)

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Ralph said:

Doug,
Sounds like a wonderful trip, except for the hospital stop and the break in.
I hope we get to see pictures.
Ralph

Skeet Club Savage said:

"Pole". Useful word with apparently international utility. We in the north High Point tribe, especially those living in the region south of Skeet Club in an area by the lake blessed with cool breezes and temperate climate, also find ourselves using the word quite frequently, also as an expression of sympathy. We use "pole", although it has evolved now more to "shaft", which of course refers to the ruthless rape of our neighborhood by Idi Kearnsani and the Emerywoodi tribe to the south.

I guess, it's the same story everywhere. You just gotta shrug and say "pole".

Allen Johnson said:

Machete, huh? Sounds like some U.S. airport security.
You seem to be having a marvelous adventure, Doug.

Wendover Witch said:

Maybe you could find a way to introduce tasers to this culture? Of course, as long as there is that understanding that it be used with diversity in mind. Like, if a black rhino gets zapped, immediately find a white rhino to zap..same for intruders, etc.

"Pole".. I like it, a way to show that you have empathy. I know some Guilford county administrators that need to feel the pain of a pole shoved right.....uh...never mind.

Pole ya'll

Eastbound & Down said:

Hey Wendover, what happens if you taser a Zebra?

Any Dottie sightings in either East Africa or East High Point?

Guilford County Dictionary said:

pole- a place to hang black and yellow signs.

Doug said:

Maybe some of the people constantly whining about Guilford schools should visit over here. They might be a bit more appreciative of what they have.

mikeg said:

Doug,

Those of us who are critical of GCS would probably not find reporters over there who pander to special interests and disregard the opinions of the majority.

By the way, your reporting on your trip is genuinely interesting. I do hope the the N & R would let you publish a photo-essay on your trip. ever consider a career working for national geographic?

Oppressed her in the Good Ol' US of A said:

Doug,

Is that what you'd tell the oppressed woman of that area, "just be appreciative of what you have"...you dissappoint me. You would think that after visiting that region that you would come back with the opposite opinion--that folks are different, come from different cultures/backgrounds, but all can learn IN their community. How many Tanzanian kids are taken OUT of their community for the sake of ANOTHER community?

Yes, I agree with Mike, your stories are interesting, but your continued backward thinking here at home is getting a little old.

Mum's the Word said:

Gosh Doug, please don't let Grier or Dot know about any problems over there. They will find a way to force some Southwest Middle School students over to fix everything.

Doug said:

Arrived back home last night. My pointed comment on this string reflects the perspective of being in a place where children die of malaria with some regularity, where AIDS orphans beg for food on the streets, where most kids never have a chance to get a decent education or change the circumstances of their lives. I just wasn't tolerant at that moment of the same old rants -- totally off subject -- from people who think their kids having to go eight miles to school is an intolerable hardship. Apologies. Now that I'm home I'll recalibrate my sense of injustice .

Skeet Club Savage said:

Doug, good to have you back.

As we can see, you've been to the mountaintop. You've stared into the abyss. We provincial, yokel xenophobes here prostrate ourselves at your feet. Please, dictate to us how you would have us live, oh expected one. My children stand ready to serve whatever noble purpose you would have them do under heaven, oh wise one. Please tell us where we should go, how we should feel, and what we should do. We AWAIT ONLY YOUR COMMAND. WE STAND READY!!!!

Doug said:

Savage, I don't care. I just wasn't in the frame of mind to tolerate the same, same, same old griping.

Skeet Club Savage said:

Pole, Doug. Pole!

Doug said:

Assante sana.

Skeet Club Savage said:

Hopefully you did not insult Armand in any way, although his carrer has become one-dimensional of late, seemigly playing an endless succession of mafia thugs.

..... said:

Its ok, skeet. Doung just said "Thanks a lot".

Oh and Doug, how would the Tanzania children feel if their usual trip to school was now doubled simply because of the color of their skin.

Ah, nevermind. uko kitako

Ken said:

Doug, Such is life in the third world. I am sure you experienced a typical Tanzanian's day and will probably understand why ideas from people like Jeffrey Sachs just wont do the trick.
According to the culture of the people, a machette is a common tool carried by subsistence farmers and even herdsmen, the purpose of the search would be an attempt to find concealed weapons.
In our world we fear not those who openly show their weapons or their hostility, it is those who hide pistols and knives underneath their coats that turn out to be violent.

ndesanjo said:

Habari Doug,
I enjoyed following your trip to Tanzania. One thing I always see among western writers writing about Africa is using few incidents and short-time experience to write a "definitive account" of what Africa is. I was born and raised in Tanzania and given another chance of coming back after this life I will not choose a different country or continent. Tanzania, like all societies in the world, is very complex. I understood what you were saying and your experiences but that is not what defines Tanzania for me" poverty, incompetent police officers, bumpy, dirt roads, etc. Just like how life in South Bronx in the US (very high school dropout rates, teenage pregnancy, AIDS, violence, drug abuse, homelessness, mental illness, thousands on welfare lines, broken families, gangs, hunger)doesnt not explain all that America is, your short time experience in Mwanza should not be used to make grand conclusion about Tanzania and Africa in general.

I live in Guilford County where your paper is based. Maybe you havent been to soup kitchens. Have you been to St. Mary's house on tuesdays? Have you been to any Food Not Bombs programs? Have you been to Night Watch with the Salvation Army? You dont need to go to Mwanza in order to develop a wider understanding of justice. Right here in Guilford County. I work with kids teaching them, among other things, digital literacy. Looking at what kids from broken low income families go through in this country...I cannot explain how pround and fortunate I feel for being born and raised in Tanzania.

Let me just stop here. I would like you to know that Mwanza that you saw with almost nothing functioning, poverty, bumpy roads, etc is also right here. In your backyard. Have you been to Smith Homes on Florida Avenue? Why you dont see and write about it, I have no idea. Maybe I have an idea. There is an article I wish you read before you left. It is about how to write about Africa. Here is the link:
http://www.granta.com/extracts/2615

Asante na kwaheri.

ndesanjo said:

Doug,
I posted my comment in a bit of hurry, I guess you will be able to figure out my point despite the typos!

Doug said:

Ndesanjo,

Thanks for reading and for your very thoughtful comments. You're absolutely right that there are deplorable conditions in parts of Greensboro and other U.S. cities.

My purpose was to give my honest impressions of the parts of Tanzania and Kenya I saw during a short visit. I don't claim to be an expert. I hope I was fair and balanced overall. I certainly made references to my favorable impressions of the Tanzanian people I met, that they are warm, friendly and welcoming, neat and clean in their appearance. They are respectful, modest, conservative. I think they would be appalled at the rudeness of many Americans. So we certainly could learn a lot from them. At the same time, there are immense problems there -- poverty, disease, increasing levels of crime, deforestation, sometimes hunger and malnutrition, inadequate infrastructure. I think Mwanza has potential to become much more of a tourist destination, but it would require a tremendous amount of investment first.

Mwidimi said:

Dear Doug

Pole sana for all your experiences of Mwanza and pole that we can not change them. Having read Ndesanjo's comments from a Tanzanian perspective, I too want to add another Tanzanian perspective because what we feel matters more than the experiences we encounter.

When people decides to visit or to live in Tanzania and indeed any developing country they should not expect to find another Hollywood or Manhattan. These countries have been expoited by the west for many decades, they experiences the sharp end of slavery, colonialism, and even after independence they still get exploited right left and centre by unfair trade, economic sanctions and political marginalization. Despite these hardships they still survive and have some functioning systems and democrasies which work for them. Despite hunger, diseases and poverty the people are relatively happier than the people I have seen in the UK and the USA.

Having lived and worked in 3 different countries (now UK) I agree with Ndesanjo that most governments have similar administrative problems and internal problems that they do not wish to admit. For example in the UK the level of crime could be higher than that of Tanzania, girls are more likely to be raped and killed in the UK than in Tanzania, drugs, chronic diseases, mental ilnesses and overall sense of insecurity and unfriendly people.

Talk about Police force, the police were apathetic and to say the least unhelpful in most occassions of property vandalism and robbery and racist attacks I experienced while in the UK despite the government's rhetoric of equal opportunity and zero tolerance on crime. Shall I say UK police is rubbish?

Do I learn anything from this culture? Yes - a lot. Would I then be justified to publisize my personal experiences of buglary, racist attacks, discrimination, prejudices that I have encountered while in the UK?, what about public transport, train delays, train cancellations, incompetent coach drivers, money-hungry and rogue traders, rogue solicitors, lack of healthy food, systematic failures in preventing crime? No, I dont think this helps me or my readers or any government. Do I publisize about the social problems that are endemic to the lower classes, the poor, the elderly in the UK? The amount of consumer debt and all the negative side of the west?

I think you need to realize that Governments are all man-made and have their flaws and problems. Show me a perfect government and I will call you a Liar.

Having said that, the Tanzanian Government have to get their act together and deliver to the best of their ability, because bad experiences encourages bad press which doesnt help with tourism which the country needs for its survival. Hoever we expect visitors coming to Tanzania to come with an open mind and expect a different life altogether. may be then we can all learn from each other.

These are my opinions

Asante sana na kwaheri

Mwidimi

Doug said:

Mwidimi,

Thank you for your very informative and interesting message.

You're certainly correct that there are problems everywhere -- and the problems of a different country may seem more severe just because they're unfamiliar.

I certainly would encourage anyone to visit Tanzania, although they should do so with realistic expectations. I hope to visit the Lushoto area next year. I'm not sure I'd go back to Mwanza, which needs improvements in its tourism infrastructure. Although I didn't sense that Mwanza was nearly as dangerous as Nairobi, theft and robbery are concerns. Two things would help: a better police force, and businesses that accept credit cards so visitors don't have to carry a lot of cash. It also needs to develop the lakeshore area more -- more hotels and restaurants, and a good shoreline cleaning project to eradicate the snails that carry parasites that in turn infect swimmers. It's a shame to have such a beautiful lake that isn't safe for swimming.

Of course a better road system throughout the country also would facilitate travel. I have to say that Mwanza airport was pretty good, so I would have no reservations about flying in or out again.

And, as I've said before, I had a very favorable impression of the Tanzanian people. They're wonderful, warm, welcoming people and I wish the best for their country.

ndesanjo said:

I totally agree with you that there are immense problems in Tanzania. But what i fail to understand is where you made a comment such as this one:

Maybe some of the people constantly whining about Guilford schools should visit over here. They might be a bit more appreciative of what they have.

I dont think people in Greensboro need to go so far...they can easily go to Urban Ministry on Lee Street. Or Smith Homes on Florida street. Or Hampton Homes on S. Elm/Eugene. My problem is this, capitalism has a way of hiding internal contradictions. There is grinding, grinding poverty in this town (forget about New Orleans).

Another remark you made was about "recalibrating" your sense of injustice. Doug, did you have to go to Tanzania to rethink about injustice? Take part in Night Out program with the Salvation Army on Friday night! You will see...

Doug said:

ndesanjo,

Thanks for your additional comments.

Of course there is grinding poverty in Greensboro. On a scale comparable to what you would see in Mwanza, Tanzania? Not even close.

My comments regarding the north High Point whiners were sarcastic. For them, the greatest injustice in the world is having their children assigned to a high school eight miles away from home.

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